INSECT journey: Mariel's progress from remote beginnings

In the Summer one of the Oxford University Expedition objectives was to begin to develop INSECT TRANSETS and long-term monitoring at Mareja.  This requires the Rangers and hopefully our new connection with Unilurio (the University in Pemba) to follow up and collect twice a year.  And potentially we could even involve interested visitors in the project.

But information gathered will open up the world of insects for us and help build a picture of: habitat diversity, species composition, and highlight changes and impacts from pressures such as hunting to climate change.  Vital data that will support our actions, build awareness and direct our management.

It is a many staged process and it is very hard to imagine that from sunny days collecting in the field that these steps will progress smoothly or at all ...and result in identification at Oxford Natural History Museum... and recording in an esteemed data base or publication for all to access and disseminate.

The two greatest hurdles where finding the right alcohol mix to preserve the insects and getting export licenses. In the end small bottles of 90% medical alcohol and toxic cheap vodka (pineapple flavour!) were located in Pemba and mixed up to make enough preservative.  Then gettinng the export license was a whole other saga.

But the many bags of insects ARRIVED in Oxford and Mariel has been volunteering for over 6 months to begin the sorting process and here are the results

It is very moving to see the reserve name neatly presented on labels and the insects carefully sorted and prepared for full indentification. Mozambique is very poorly represented in national collections.  

Sitting in Mareja in such remote surroundings I wish the Rangers could feel the full weight of this small but significant contribution towards science. But I will greatly enjoy showing them these photos.

Mareja LOGO, website and on going research permit anxieties

The Mareja website is nearly 10 years old and as the main tool for attracting visitors it needs attention - some would say urgently.  (Containing a very vague map and old email address for Sonya, Dominik's previous girlfriend, poor thing probably gets much unwanted correspondence.)

So at last I am doing it and enjoying the challenge of presenting the project and its many facets in an simple but evocative way -with the superb design aid of Jamie Middleton of WAI. 

We have a logo challenge, Dominik is very attached to the existing one that is figurative with many references - sable, mountain, palms to denote the fragment that was saved, river.  I think it looks like a sand dune in a very different setting, perhaps Eygpt?  He disagrees heartedly and understandably, it is a central part of the history and development of the project.  Here it is.

The question is how much does a brand matter in these settings?  One day when we have many partners, sell products for the community and are a research centre, it may be important.  Or not, the modes of operation are so different.  Would love your thoughts if you have any on the subject. 
But throughout this the ongoing concern of the last two months (and indeed much of last year) has been and is...research permits.  Last year we required two, one for plants and one for insects, for the Oxford University Students and we finally discovered that although a research license must be issued by Quirimbas National Park the research and export permits must come from the national museum in Maputo.

We are now preparing for a visiting scientist Dr Galen Rathbun (California Academy of Science) and Peter Coals (leader of the Ox expedition) and they have been sending requests and reminders to our contact in Maputo since November...as yet to no avail.  They will be coming to Mareja in June to do some exteremely exciting small mammal research but the whole trip depends on gathering these vital official permits.

To Dominik's frustration we may have to reroot our trip to Pemba via Maputo to try to gather the documents in person.  He is very keen to get back to the reserve (Jasper went on holiday a few days ago and the rains are stopping, so the season for poaching will soon begin again). Although there are other jobs that could be usefully done...such as buy a 4x4, ours had to be handed back before we left at Christmas due to an interesting complexity with its paperwork, and mattresses for the new guest rooms etc....

Or perhaps I will go alone to Maputo.  Plans will evolve, dictated by flight prices and other such practicalities.  I have never been to the capital and hear they have rather a good collection in the museum - it could be a fascinating trip.

Hasso a small German black dog goes WILD and I have taken to betting

Hasso has provided wonderful distraction from my DIY day.  If only I knew how to properly run a 'book' William Hill style, but without that skill am still taking bets on the number of puppies and their colour.

Hasso is a little black dog with an unknown herditary.  A fox like face, longish black body and unexpectedly curly tail.  She is female despite having a traditional male German dog's name.  As well as barking at strangers Hasso's other main occupation is getting pregnant by mystery visiting dogs.  This has spawned a near village full of Hasso look alikes.  In fact the last father was seen a large fox terrier (brown curly fur) but he seemed to have  no impact on the gene pool, they are always black and small with a funny tail. 

Dominik's mother (kindly) has two from the last litter and when I took myself on a walk the other day I came across a neighbour with a backyard full of them.

This prolific and somewhat random breeding is not encouraged and after the last slip up Hasso was taken to the vet for an 'injection'...which obviously did  not work.

However she must have felt the mounting dispair because she has taken motherhood into her own hands (paws) and disappeared completely.  Three days later she was sighted and then her new home discovered.  She had dug an extensive large fox-like den with two entrances and a hidden chamber deep in the ground between tree stumps.  Now a week later and still no one has seen the latest brood.

So I have opened up a book and here are the results...

Name/Number of puppies/colour

1. Dominik/6/black (like Hasso)
2. Jeff/5/black (like Hasso)
3. Frau Kirch/5/black (like Hasso)
4. Sophie/7/white/brown/black
5. Constantin (owner of Hasso)/6/black (like Hasso)
6. Marrianna/5/white/brown/black
7. Anna-marie/6/black (like Hasso)
8. Helena/7/black (like Hasso)
9. Titsia/5/white/black/brown
10. Anne/4/black (like Hasso)
11. Stuart/6/black (like Hasso)
12. Teresa/6/black (like Hasso)
13. Manuel/3/white/black/brown

As you can see the odds are short, with few risk takers!  Prizes yet to be agreed.  (But Anne suggests the winner gets nothing and loosers all a mini Hasso each.)

I would love one, owning a dog is my most enduring life goals.  Whatever colour they are they have a determined resourceful mother.

News update: last bird ringing trip and Rebecca......

The bird-ringing group that visited in November 2010 - here with their table prepared for bird handling, measuring, recording.  They are led by Malcolm Wilson (on left) and supported by Rebecca, from the Park (employed by WWF). 

The twitcher's gaze!  A passing Bateleur Eagle is spotted

This was the third year of visiting - birds are caught in nets set up on regular transects along the forest ride below the house.  It requires a lot of experience and training to handle birds and carefully fit a small metal ring on one leg without stressing them.  These photos were taken very quickly before the birds are set free.

Nets are strung along the ride at dusk and checked at dawn

Bird names to be added ...help needed?

Note from Malcolm: 'the sunbird is Scarlet-chested, of the race 'gutteralis'! also the African Broadbill from the previous trips'

Cluster of C F Helmet Shrikes!

We have just learnt that Rebecca's contract was NOT renewed and she left the Park in January.  A great shock and loss for us.  She had worked for the Park developing specialist tourism for many years and is highly affective and respected.  And she encouraged Malcolm to visit... as well as being my friend and translator (as a fluent Portuguese speaking Brit).

It looks like Malcolm won't visit in the near future (his May visit has been cancelled) unless funding can be found for his travel. Just as we were gathering great data and welcoming all sorts of interesting bird-lovers to Mareja.  A really frustrating step backwards.

The new eco-guest rooms in pictures

Grass roof being prepared, it must lie flat and straight

A big project and attempt to build using traditional methods and with only local materials...termite soil, grass, sand...mixed, moulded and applied with many hands and cooked with fire or finished with lime.

Buidling began 2009 and completed just in time for Christmas 2010, NY 2011.

Floor tiles made by a women's group -
lots of experimenting with firing and mix: termite soil, sand and some grass



New furnace under construction - chimneys to be added



A lot of grass needed...







View from the back - windows finished with 'matopa' and lime.





Plumbing is a huge challenge - materials are imported and paper thin plastic.  Dominik nearly went mad from pipes bursting before being fitted

 

Interior wall showing brick work and arch to loo





Tarpaulin curtains on to the large veranda,
made from confiscated illegal timber





Walls before they dried and view of tiled bathroom floor



Finally curtains from local matket -
tied back with repurposed rope from confiscated snares

A bit of decoration - encouraged by Dominik I used pigment and burnt out battery charcoal.  This is the Lesser Striped Swallow that nests around the house

The tiles have been decorated too - some have numbers to signify
the women who made it or prints.  Here is the delicate print of the mighty Kudu



Lime finished walls - and here thumb prints of all who applied the mud render



A muddy and exhausting process!



The view on a particularly beautiful day - although sunshine is guaranteed



Here is the 'Vallejo' or Old Carpenter, that is his
official title as elders command respect. 
Here he is with his assistant preparing the verandas



The new furnace being burnt...to try to bake the soil used and make it water-proof...seems to be semi successful.

But we will see when we return after rainy season how much is left standing



Finished!  Many many people worked to make the new houses, everyone here played a part
(apart from the chicken who just wanted its photo taken)





white van - old place new attitude

Sometimes I wonder what has happened to my life?  It looks quite different to the one I had only a year ago.

Now back in UK while the bush is closed from rain (we hope and poachers kept indoors) I am doing various important things, like trying to earn money, making my house rentable, and Dominik is doing up his small house in Germany - which is affectionately called the Cat House - it did smell very strongly of cat pee.

Anyway two days ago we rented a white transit van as we have ended up buying various useful things for his house in England in 'The Sales'- such as tiles, a bath, two sinks, a sofa, mirror, paint, wallpaper, plates... a pair of old scientific scales, a stuffed Teal, a foot pump - things ranging from the essential to not so essential.  In all I counted 42 items neatly packed in for our journey...which according to AA route planner should take 5 1/2 hours, extranordinary - it actually took double and we arrived at 1.30am.

As Dominik drove I unpacked our large picnic and suddenly realised I have developed a feast or famine attitude, that must I suppose have been fostered from lean times in the bush.  The large picnic included fish pieces that were approaching their sell-by date quickly cooked into a pasta sauce using the odd ingredient I had in the bottom of the fridge - a bit of old cabbage, creme fraiche, herb mix and one tomato.  I sadly don't possess tupperware so had used an old biscuit tin to transport this concoction.  We also had boiled eggs, with a nice twist of salt, a bag of carrots, one orange and a few chocolate biscuits.

The cold seafood pasta, of sorts, did not smell wonderful in its airtight metal tin.  But as we bobbed along in the elevated world of white vans we ate it happily and I reflected on life, change, expectations and much else.

A love of all things wild - tribute to Dr Gill Stevens

...to celebrate the life of a true one off, golden spirit and dear friend.  And to send thoughts and love to her husband Graeme and Mum Joan.

Gill and Stuart (Centre Manager) at the opening of
the Darwin Centre Sept 2009

Gill passed away 13th January after a long and determined battle with cancer, aged 45.  She died peacefully in Trinity Hospice with her family around her.  

AMC Team

Gill was Head of the Angela Marmont Centre for UK Biodiversity and a hugely respected member of staff and botanist, she had worked at the Natural History Museum for many years.

She was a source of inspiration and amazing force for fun.  She had a quite unique knack of bringing dried specimens and preserved people to life!

We worked side by side for 2 1/2 years then I took over her post for 9 months while she was having treatment.  She came back to work and I took the plunge and joined Dominik in Mozambique.  

Stuart, Me, Gill - once the confetti had settled

Gill then worked on despite her health.  She had a passionate drive to inspire and engage everyone in the wonders of the natural world and to that end developed much Citizen Science.  She gained a huge lottery grant for the museum to take natural history training and learning into the field...OPAL the Open Air Laboratory.  

Gill leaves a physical legacy in the form of the Centre with its staff, programmes and collection - a legacy to foster the next generation of naturalists.

But she also loved music, theatre, poetry and to find the hidden, sunny corners of life.  She has seen more live music than anyone I know...she filled every moment.

I have danced in muddy fields and laughed in dark holes thanks to Gill.  She has left us with wonderful memories and SO much to thank her for.  Here are some poems for you ...



    
A Small Dragon

I've found a small dragon in the woodshed.
Think it must have come from deep inside a forest
because it's damp and green and leaves
are still reflecting in its eyes.

I fed it on many things, tried grass,
the roots of stars, hazel-nut and dandelion,
but it stared up at me as if to say, I need
foods you can't provide.

It made a nest among the coal,
not unlike a bird's but larger, it
is out of place here
and is quite silent.

If you believed in it
I would come hurrying to your house
to let you share my wonder,
but I want instead to see
if you yourself will pass this way.

Brian Patten

I'm going to plant a heart in the earth

water it with love from a vein

I'm going to praise it with the push of muscle

and care for it in the sound of all dimensions.

I'm going to leave a heart in the earth

so it may grow and flower

a heart that throbs with longing

that adores everything green

that will be strength and nourishment for birds

that will be the sap of plants and mountains.

Rosario Murillo

Gill's Birthday Oct 2010

A wild one: love and thanks for the words and the music