Ivory glitters like gold against the rain

After a lull in my will to BLOG - like a log that gets lodged in the stream, there has been a slow build up of momentum and now a dam of information has formed.  Here an overview...

Dominik returned nearly 2 months ago to Mareja to discover all sorts of inexplicable happenings.  As he put it, the community were in a state of 'confusion'.  Confusion no doubt fuelled by poachers hovering around and lodging in the neighbouring communities offering ready cash for ivory.  It is hard to imagine the power for confusion this generates....particularly in the rainy season when there are no tourists, little activity on the reserve and so the benefits of these large land mammals with glittering gold tusks alive wanes, and dead they assume a whole new meaning.

So I have received a rash of reports from Dominik via text (always confusing, wrongly spelt and requiring much interpretation!)  Within the wider, surrounding national park he estimates from reports that 40-50 elephants were killed last year and about 15 so far in 2012.  The poachers have been kept at bay within Mareja until now - he has sent me 4 different alarm texts of shots heard at some of our most precious and remote watering holes.  But only yesterday Dominik found a young male elephant dead near our beautiful Mareja mountain. 

The chilling part of this new episode is that all reports have been received when Dominik is OFF the reserve, momentarily in Pemba to refuel...so the inevitable question arises.  Are members of the Mareja community informants, who give the poachers access and information when the coast is clear? 

It seemed that the Head Ranger tried hard to prevent Dominik tracking the young dead male, taking him around the site...so operating in such climes the answer to this question is probably YES.  That is the hardest part - who can you trust?  But you cannot estimate the value of money in such areas - indeed it readily corrupts world over.  And of course the hardest part of all...can you blame them?

The blame really lies at the feet of those that trade and buy ivory - the power of their actions leaves ripples so deep and devastating. 


My first elephant encounter at Mareja.  A young shy male as you can see hiding from us!
This was the animal found dead this week.

On a personal level Dominik described this recent killing like 'someone coming into my house and killing my dogs'.  On a global scale the conservation impact is immense, by removing elephants, a conservation flagship species, you upset the whole ecosystem leading to the erosion of the few wild and biodiverse areas left on our planet.  In this case coastal forest arguably one of the rarest of global biodiversity hotspots.


Dominik is now wracked with anxiety - does he take the hard line, fire those implicated or somehow buy their allegiance...but in reality how do you monitor and implement this? The Head Ranger has worked at Mareja for nearly 10 years, helping to develop the community project, he is a resident and knows the ins and outs of its bush and project better than anyone.  What to do?

Who would think I could cause such chaos in Pemba from rural weekend in Herefordshire...?

My friend Peter is visiting Dominik at Mareja for a week.  Amazingly Dominik is back in Pemba on Friday, poised and ready to collect him a whole day and half early. A happy, satisfying (and rare) bit of organisational efficiency...until I receive a text midday Saturday to say he has gone back to Mareja after reports of shots near the house.  Peter arrives midday Sunday....

In summary what follows left me wanting to lie in a darkened room belly up and never ever venture into the world of communications again:

• Saturday midday ring Nzuma Lodge (Peter had a mutual friend who knows the owner)- his wife says they are full but may be able to sort something but will let me know first thing Sunday morn. I hear nothing so send a message saying 'not to worry I will sort something else out' - (sent from mobile phone that works, important detail.)
• Saturday early evening email Jasper - asking what chance is he could drive Peter out to Mareja (conscious that he is not best pleased with Dominik and his ways - so it is a tentative query)
• Sunday morning 10am UK/11am Moz no word from either of above ...so I contact my good friend Rebecca for help
• About 11am UK - peace and tranquillity descends - Rebecca offers bed, I imagine Peter happy, welcomed with beach views, sun and beer and feel greatly relieved
• About lunchtime - still feeling relaxed...I get text 'No Peter'.... then the new picture unfurls
• Jasper's brother has waited an hour, so has Rebecca, no Peter - I get indigestion and break out in pregnancy enhanced sweat
• 3 people waiting to collect 1 - Peter leaves with most unexpected option

Peter has in fact been whisked off by Jonnie (whoever he is) to Nzuma and Pemba airport was the scene of wasted time, Peter confusion - a nice twistt, Geert, Jasper's brother, thought he was waiting for a different Peter (our Oxford researcher)

Who would think I could cause such long-range chaos?

Last I heard, 2 days later than planned, Peter was heading with Dominik to Mareja ...Peter was driving while Dominik enjoyed the view - I believe he was testing his 4x4 skills. I wonder if Peter was in the mood for more tests...for sure I am NOT!