Christmas eve ... 75 shots heralded christmas day

The park ranger at the mountain post ran to Mareja when the fire went on and on.  Dominik and two rangers (perhaps unsurprisingly the rest would not come) quickly set off in the gathering dusk to the mountain and fired warning shots over the canopy, a rather futile attempt to scare when the damage had already been done.  Dominik says he then heard hacking as the ivory was removed.  It is surprisingly hard to locate sound in the dense forest and now night had fallen.

Christmas day revealed this body, a lone teenaged bull and after much searching another old kill of a decaring mother and baby, all ivory removed. 

It turns out this male was the shy teenager I had watched half hidden by large trees down by the big river.  My first sighting of an elephant in the wild.  He allowed us to quietly observe him eating before eventually becoming wary, flapping his large ears and disappearing.  He was about 18 years old.

There have been a steady stream of poaching attacks over the last 2 years, taking between 1-3 animals at a time and across the wider national park it is estimated that the population may have been reduced by as much as 30-40%.  

It is a huge task patrolling nearly 40,000 hectares of forest at Mareja with a team of only 10 local rangers, and safeguarding these magnificent  beasts against the horrifying force of poaching.  I just hope that every animal killed brings us nearer to radical action. It seems that that action has to come quickly and with huge international will - they say our largest land mammal has only 10 years left at this rate of persecution, what a sad world that will be.

A shrieking night-flyer from Shaun via new phone

What an excitement!  Shaun is visiting Mareja, he is an amateur but very expert lepidopterist with a particular interest in hawkmoths.  He does a day/night job as a fireman and spends spare time collecting and developing his specialism.  He saw an advert I placed in the oxford natural history museum for researchers, keen to develop our biodiversity inventory.  Well he went for two weeks with light-traps, pins and boxes in hand.

Coming out of the dry season and being on the edge of the rains we were not sure what sort of life would emerge for him into his light-traps.  Anyway all in all it seems to have been a successful trip and my fear that Dominik would divert Shaun with other jobs, noticing his practical capable ways - was slightly realised.  (D using his new phone sent me photos of Shaun helping him to prop up a huge crumbling column in the main house.) But imagine my delight when one evening I get a phonecall, in fact the night before Shaun left - and I hear shrieking in the background.  Soon the sound is married with a picture. Look at this beauty! A death's-head hawkmoth, with the extraordinary skull marking, who when alarmed admits a high-pitched call.

(We have had really poor comms in Mareja until recently and it has been markedly improved by a new service provider and Dominik's propulsion into new technology with an iphone type ...I must add 'type' as our frugal approach meant that he got an imitation lower grade make, which unsurprisingly doesn't work that well.)

Words from Dominik: when I arrived back..

... in Mocambique in November last year I decided to walk from the coast to Mareja in an attempt to gain a clearer picture of what is happening 'on the ground', as the saying goes. It is a dense 2-3 day trek.  Sure enough it did not take an hour before we (my guide, the Witchdoctor Unkahili, and I) stumbled on newly opened farm land within the Park, freshly cut logs, tractor spoor and bamboo operations. Further into the bush and no sign of game of any sort. Unkahili spotted some bamboo cutters and caused a stir. One of them came pacing past me and disappeared out of sight in our direction of travel sure enough he was going to warn  poachers further up the path. Shortly afterwards I lost my guide completely, he just vanished with our water supply and mangoes in his pack and I ended up with a pound of salt, dry food and virtually nothing to drink.

A few more hours and I reached the Mareja boundary in the form of a dry river. On the other side the first elephant spoor. A largish animal alone. I continued and came across fresh human tracks, three or four men in pursuit of the same animal. I carried on and the elephant spoor kept reappearing, in and out of thick thorn bush. The poachers had been trying to follow the same prints. Another 3km and I decided to rest for the night gathering dropplets of water from vines and catching about a cup full during the night from light rain.

The next day the story became clear. The elephant was a cow with a brand new calf. She had been hiding the calf during the day, running in circles to throw the hunters off her track. At night she would rejoin her calf and travel some distance before repeating the same procedure. At about 6 am, an hour and a half into my travels, I caught her wind. She was near but completely silent. I carried on trusting in the fact that she will recognise me. If not personally then from hear sake. The sun was up and the heat unbearable. I lost my direction and was now walking simply due west. There she was again now traveling in front of me with her calf in the same direction. I followed her track, possibly the only way I was going to get through these thorny thickets. Miniature poo balls no bigger then my fist. It occurred to me that I was now between the hunter and the prey. Armed with only a lady sized can of pepper spray, out of water and slowly out of steam. Months in the rich fields of Europe had made me fat and lazy. I thought much about my wife and child and found that these thoughts stiffened my resolve to protect the cow and calf in front of me, probably less then a few hundred meters away.  Non the less I was getting weak and the relentless sun was scorching me, drying my throat and turning every step into an ordeal. Tiredness was making me careless and my legs were being cut deeply by thorns.

At about 11am I came across my main east-west track through Mareja. A massive relief but also a daunting yard stick. Another 15km to go! I would have to stop soon and spend the rest of the day gathering water. At dusk I continued, exhausted and overheated: 3 or 4 km then sit, sleep for 10mins then on towards Mareja and to the waterhole, some 3km from the house. Surprisingly I made it and the closer I came the more intense the signs of elephants and their fresh sent. There must be at least 40 animals here I thought. My heart lifted, they are here because its the safest place they know. I headed for the water. Some 200m to go and in the star light I could see a dark turreted wall to my left. Now I wondered how best to negotiate this? I grunted and talked to them with my dried out throat, they did not move an inch. I carried on and got to the water, took off my clothes and submerged myself all the way to my chin. It felt divine and it wasn’t till half an hour later I realised that the water wreaked of animal poo and urine. I had already drunk a fair amount of it through my quadrupled up shirt. Floating in the pee feeling blissful watching the stars my thoughts returned to the ellies and at that very moment an enormous trumpeting sound came from the other side. I had totally overlooked another herd of animals to my rear and they were now towering above me, obviously getting nervous and thirsty. I hurried out of the puddle, apologised, grabbed my clothes and full bottle and made off. The turreted wall I’d passed earlier had disappeared and the road was clear.

After less then a km I was overmanned by tiredness but feeling cool and relaxed I perched myself on my pack and fell fast asleep. An hour or so later I was rudely awoken by the very close roar of a lion. Somewhere between the herd and my position. Whoops. They would not be able to help me if Caramo (Makua for Lion) was to decide to diversify his diet. I got up and made the remaining 3km in good time. There was much surprise at my arrival and the rangers stealthily surrounded my position pointing all they had at me - two rifles, a bow and arrow, two spears and a bunch of catanas (pangas). I did not sleep for hours, my belly bursting with no less then 5litres of fresh, crystal clear water and my heart dancing with the memory of what had just happened. Yet I could not talk to anyone about it.

Where to begin? Summer 2012

I have neglected my blog entirely over the summer, dropped it just like that!  For those who are in a small way interested, very sorry.  But it has been a summer of intense activity - here and there.  I have had a baby so was not able to be there.  So through adverts and a large amount of serendipity and other strange factors a fantastic team was pulled together.  Cody Can DO, Iris The Brave, Pete The Anti-Poacher, Kim The Adventurous, held the reins and looked after the project with their energy and spirit.  And of course the support of the community and particularly Antonio's cooking. 

Cody has been managing Mareja with the help of his girlfriend Kim, Iris undertaking biodiversity research and doing everything else in between and Pete running an intense anti-poaching drive.  The detail makes fascinating reading...like the time Iris had to use her researchers fishing rod to capture a large snake outside her room (luckily not poisonous.)  They have coped with many bush-like moments mainly revolving around car troubles...the wish for reliable functioning vehicles gets ever deeper and more profound.

But it is all overshadowed by what is now an all out elephant massacre.  You will have read the press no doubt but this devastating wave of poaching has hit every corner.  The reports come in weekly of yet more killings and Dominik now doubts that the remaining herd is viable at all, with possibly only young left without milk or any learned understanding of the surroundings. 

So much more to say. But for now must thank the fabulous summer team for a great deal, and I hope to add more of their thoughts, happenings and photos.

Ivory glitters like gold against the rain

After a lull in my will to BLOG - like a log that gets lodged in the stream, there has been a slow build up of momentum and now a dam of information has formed.  Here an overview...

Dominik returned nearly 2 months ago to Mareja to discover all sorts of inexplicable happenings.  As he put it, the community were in a state of 'confusion'.  Confusion no doubt fuelled by poachers hovering around and lodging in the neighbouring communities offering ready cash for ivory.  It is hard to imagine the power for confusion this generates....particularly in the rainy season when there are no tourists, little activity on the reserve and so the benefits of these large land mammals with glittering gold tusks alive wanes, and dead they assume a whole new meaning.

So I have received a rash of reports from Dominik via text (always confusing, wrongly spelt and requiring much interpretation!)  Within the wider, surrounding national park he estimates from reports that 40-50 elephants were killed last year and about 15 so far in 2012.  The poachers have been kept at bay within Mareja until now - he has sent me 4 different alarm texts of shots heard at some of our most precious and remote watering holes.  But only yesterday Dominik found a young male elephant dead near our beautiful Mareja mountain. 

The chilling part of this new episode is that all reports have been received when Dominik is OFF the reserve, momentarily in Pemba to refuel...so the inevitable question arises.  Are members of the Mareja community informants, who give the poachers access and information when the coast is clear? 

It seemed that the Head Ranger tried hard to prevent Dominik tracking the young dead male, taking him around the site...so operating in such climes the answer to this question is probably YES.  That is the hardest part - who can you trust?  But you cannot estimate the value of money in such areas - indeed it readily corrupts world over.  And of course the hardest part of all...can you blame them?

The blame really lies at the feet of those that trade and buy ivory - the power of their actions leaves ripples so deep and devastating. 


My first elephant encounter at Mareja.  A young shy male as you can see hiding from us!
This was the animal found dead this week.

On a personal level Dominik described this recent killing like 'someone coming into my house and killing my dogs'.  On a global scale the conservation impact is immense, by removing elephants, a conservation flagship species, you upset the whole ecosystem leading to the erosion of the few wild and biodiverse areas left on our planet.  In this case coastal forest arguably one of the rarest of global biodiversity hotspots.


Dominik is now wracked with anxiety - does he take the hard line, fire those implicated or somehow buy their allegiance...but in reality how do you monitor and implement this? The Head Ranger has worked at Mareja for nearly 10 years, helping to develop the community project, he is a resident and knows the ins and outs of its bush and project better than anyone.  What to do?

Who would think I could cause such chaos in Pemba from rural weekend in Herefordshire...?

My friend Peter is visiting Dominik at Mareja for a week.  Amazingly Dominik is back in Pemba on Friday, poised and ready to collect him a whole day and half early. A happy, satisfying (and rare) bit of organisational efficiency...until I receive a text midday Saturday to say he has gone back to Mareja after reports of shots near the house.  Peter arrives midday Sunday....

In summary what follows left me wanting to lie in a darkened room belly up and never ever venture into the world of communications again:

• Saturday midday ring Nzuma Lodge (Peter had a mutual friend who knows the owner)- his wife says they are full but may be able to sort something but will let me know first thing Sunday morn. I hear nothing so send a message saying 'not to worry I will sort something else out' - (sent from mobile phone that works, important detail.)
• Saturday early evening email Jasper - asking what chance is he could drive Peter out to Mareja (conscious that he is not best pleased with Dominik and his ways - so it is a tentative query)
• Sunday morning 10am UK/11am Moz no word from either of above ...so I contact my good friend Rebecca for help
• About 11am UK - peace and tranquillity descends - Rebecca offers bed, I imagine Peter happy, welcomed with beach views, sun and beer and feel greatly relieved
• About lunchtime - still feeling relaxed...I get text 'No Peter'.... then the new picture unfurls
• Jasper's brother has waited an hour, so has Rebecca, no Peter - I get indigestion and break out in pregnancy enhanced sweat
• 3 people waiting to collect 1 - Peter leaves with most unexpected option

Peter has in fact been whisked off by Jonnie (whoever he is) to Nzuma and Pemba airport was the scene of wasted time, Peter confusion - a nice twistt, Geert, Jasper's brother, thought he was waiting for a different Peter (our Oxford researcher)

Who would think I could cause such long-range chaos?

Last I heard, 2 days later than planned, Peter was heading with Dominik to Mareja ...Peter was driving while Dominik enjoyed the view - I believe he was testing his 4x4 skills. I wonder if Peter was in the mood for more tests...for sure I am NOT!

Summer opportunity: General Manager and Fixer (4-5 months)

We are looking for support this Summer, with an exciting programme of activities.  Although 'voluntary' we will pay all your expenses...the search for such an adventurous type is made harder as they/you will need to speak fairly good Portuguese or Swahili. For more details see the advert below or do be in touch via email sofascott@hotmail.com  Deadline: 13th April 2012

http://escapethecity.org/opportunities/1782-mareja-community-conservation-projects-general-manager-and-fixer-4-5-months

The adventures of Tom...just imagine

Tom in Oxford, packed and ready for his unknown adventure

stepping into Dominik's shoes at Mareja over Christmas and NY while there is a major poaching crisis?  If you know Dominik and Mareja and the amorphous, lurking, immeasurable pressure of elephant poaching....it is a feat that requires very large adventurous feet and a bold stride.  But Tom pulled on his boots and took it all on.

He left family and friends for a very remote wild Christmas and New years eve, almost alone - though with a backdrop of locals, the call of lion and star shine and hopefully buoyed up with a beer or two.



The 'to-do' list grew as D had time away from the muddy end of the spectrum to consider things with a coffee in hand ...rebuilding the garage roof before the big rains really hit and the kitchen on top of simply managing the place and its surrounding 38,000 hectares of coastal forest.  If you are conscientious or observant and have a green core you see the mountain of work - in addition to staff and Ranager management and daily maintenance (water collection, road repairs, machinery maintenance and so on.) 

Luckily we have spoken to Tom fairly regularly, he would find the good spot underneath the communication tree, a cashew sited on a slightly raised hillock and update us.  I always try to find out how he is coping, any stresses, concerns or hurdles physical or other.  D always tries to impart more worries and jobs.  It is a female v male approach..  Possibly I see more clearly the intricate knowledge you need when living deep in the bush to... repair punctures, handle the 4x4 around hidden pot-holes etc.  D doesn't see these things, they are just part of his life and even psyche, he doesn't preempt but has learnt to get out of the holes....eventually.  He has lived there for 15 years so Mareja's ways are second nature to him.

Well once the bush is closed over from rain Tom will return and I will get a full debrief.  I am much looking forward to seeing him and to hearing all his thoughts and stories.  I am sure he will have seen the highs, lows and challenges in all their Mozambican technicolour - and enjoyed a rather demanding bush-hardened boss (not me!).  (Imagine Tom doesn't even speak Portuguese and has had to steer the whole team, about 20 people - but thank goodness he has some Swahili.) 

It is an amazing thing he has done.  And it will be illuminating to have a fresh spirited view on the place and its work load.  It will help us better plan 2012 - a year when we hope to achieve much at Mareja.  My huge thanks and admiration to Tom.  He has given us peace of mind, renewed energy and will provide another perspective...what more do you want for a new year?