Thursday, 14 July 2016

From 5 star to 0 stars

actually D admitted it may even get minus star rating... His house in Pemba.

Last night we stayed at his friends Isabel and Roco's wonderful house on the beach with air conditioning, a view on to the Indian ocean and breakfast on our terrace of fresh papaya.  Without question a 5 star experience and a moment to take a deep breath.

We were meant to go to Mareja today but D embarked on getting a new driving license which required a medical check in one place, photo in another and so on. I went shopping and discovered the new supermarket with all sorts on dark packed shelves particularly rows of mysterious biscuits but a small meat counter and even a freezer cabinet with chips in.  But then we embarked on buying fresh veg the traditional way were you haggle in the street, with a balance....it took ages, the mosquitoes came out and then the sun began to dip in the sky it sets at 5pm as its winter here. So we sidled to Ds house it was too late for the long bush drive.

His house is situated bang opposite the hospital, with a wall of bourgonvilla separating us visually but not from the particularly fat mosquitoes who have easy access through the many holes in the decaying metal nets on the windows.  There have been moments in its life.when the house had  running water, a fridge, an almost functioning cooker and the odd painting and cupboard of out of place crystal made it feel loved.  But that moment has passed.  Now there is no running water or fridge or cooker and the paintings just hint at better times. 

Water is extracted for a hole below the kitchen, in a cupboard and at a strange angle in the dark.  The homemade bucket doesn't sink so it needs poking with  stick.  The bathroom has a large bucket for the loo water and I use a metal cup to scoop and wash my hands...how was I to know that the little sink was no longer connected so water cascaded onto my feet?  My heart sank to the doldrums of '0' rating but the mosquitoes leapt with joy a new pool of water to attract yet more friends to share our house.

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