Clear sight...5 year barometer of change

A pile of goods confiscated at a poachers
camp in the heart of Mareja

Having returned after 5 years the difference is stark.  I can clearly see the holes left by the poachers - far far fewer signs of life and it's not just elephants that have suffered.  I saw no kudo or sable and a huge hot fire last year took out much other smaller life and left many trees charred beyond recovery. 

The subtle symphony of familiar sounds has lost key notes, like my favourite the guinea fools as I call them...the Crested Guinea fowl but a Spotted Hyena has taken residence and provided a rather haunting new call to the forest night...Dominik thinks it has been attracted by the carrion. 

And perhaps the saddest loss the deep cough of the lone male lion that marked night fall. This particular animal lived for many years below the house and has also gone.  There is no doubt all larger elephants have been killed at Mareja but in so doing the poachers have taken their trophies and now left. 

Juma and Dominik on Mareja mountain looking for poachers fires