Who would think I could cause such chaos in Pemba from rural weekend in Herefordshire...?

My friend Peter is visiting Dominik at Mareja for a week.  Amazingly Dominik is back in Pemba on Friday, poised and ready to collect him a whole day and half early. A happy, satisfying (and rare) bit of organisational efficiency...until I receive a text midday Saturday to say he has gone back to Mareja after reports of shots near the house.  Peter arrives midday Sunday....

In summary what follows left me wanting to lie in a darkened room belly up and never ever venture into the world of communications again:

• Saturday midday ring Nzuma Lodge (Peter had a mutual friend who knows the owner)- his wife says they are full but may be able to sort something but will let me know first thing Sunday morn. I hear nothing so send a message saying 'not to worry I will sort something else out' - (sent from mobile phone that works, important detail.)
• Saturday early evening email Jasper - asking what chance is he could drive Peter out to Mareja (conscious that he is not best pleased with Dominik and his ways - so it is a tentative query)
• Sunday morning 10am UK/11am Moz no word from either of above ...so I contact my good friend Rebecca for help
• About 11am UK - peace and tranquillity descends - Rebecca offers bed, I imagine Peter happy, welcomed with beach views, sun and beer and feel greatly relieved
• About lunchtime - still feeling relaxed...I get text 'No Peter'.... then the new picture unfurls
• Jasper's brother has waited an hour, so has Rebecca, no Peter - I get indigestion and break out in pregnancy enhanced sweat
• 3 people waiting to collect 1 - Peter leaves with most unexpected option

Peter has in fact been whisked off by Jonnie (whoever he is) to Nzuma and Pemba airport was the scene of wasted time, Peter confusion - a nice twistt, Geert, Jasper's brother, thought he was waiting for a different Peter (our Oxford researcher)

Who would think I could cause such long-range chaos?

Last I heard, 2 days later than planned, Peter was heading with Dominik to Mareja ...Peter was driving while Dominik enjoyed the view - I believe he was testing his 4x4 skills. I wonder if Peter was in the mood for more tests...for sure I am NOT!

Summer opportunity: General Manager and Fixer (4-5 months)

We are looking for support this Summer, with an exciting programme of activities.  Although 'voluntary' we will pay all your expenses...the search for such an adventurous type is made harder as they/you will need to speak fairly good Portuguese or Swahili. For more details see the advert below or do be in touch via email sofascott@hotmail.com  Deadline: 13th April 2012

http://escapethecity.org/opportunities/1782-mareja-community-conservation-projects-general-manager-and-fixer-4-5-months

The adventures of Tom...just imagine

Tom in Oxford, packed and ready for his unknown adventure

stepping into Dominik's shoes at Mareja over Christmas and NY while there is a major poaching crisis?  If you know Dominik and Mareja and the amorphous, lurking, immeasurable pressure of elephant poaching....it is a feat that requires very large adventurous feet and a bold stride.  But Tom pulled on his boots and took it all on.

He left family and friends for a very remote wild Christmas and New years eve, almost alone - though with a backdrop of locals, the call of lion and star shine and hopefully buoyed up with a beer or two.



The 'to-do' list grew as D had time away from the muddy end of the spectrum to consider things with a coffee in hand ...rebuilding the garage roof before the big rains really hit and the kitchen on top of simply managing the place and its surrounding 38,000 hectares of coastal forest.  If you are conscientious or observant and have a green core you see the mountain of work - in addition to staff and Ranager management and daily maintenance (water collection, road repairs, machinery maintenance and so on.) 

Luckily we have spoken to Tom fairly regularly, he would find the good spot underneath the communication tree, a cashew sited on a slightly raised hillock and update us.  I always try to find out how he is coping, any stresses, concerns or hurdles physical or other.  D always tries to impart more worries and jobs.  It is a female v male approach..  Possibly I see more clearly the intricate knowledge you need when living deep in the bush to... repair punctures, handle the 4x4 around hidden pot-holes etc.  D doesn't see these things, they are just part of his life and even psyche, he doesn't preempt but has learnt to get out of the holes....eventually.  He has lived there for 15 years so Mareja's ways are second nature to him.

Well once the bush is closed over from rain Tom will return and I will get a full debrief.  I am much looking forward to seeing him and to hearing all his thoughts and stories.  I am sure he will have seen the highs, lows and challenges in all their Mozambican technicolour - and enjoyed a rather demanding bush-hardened boss (not me!).  (Imagine Tom doesn't even speak Portuguese and has had to steer the whole team, about 20 people - but thank goodness he has some Swahili.) 

It is an amazing thing he has done.  And it will be illuminating to have a fresh spirited view on the place and its work load.  It will help us better plan 2012 - a year when we hope to achieve much at Mareja.  My huge thanks and admiration to Tom.  He has given us peace of mind, renewed energy and will provide another perspective...what more do you want for a new year?

The terror of random communications and Tom sets forth - fully equipped (minus a plastic gun)

I get the strangest texts from Dominik, with his one bar of connection from a particular cashew tree, best received while lying on top of the Land Rover. He writes things like this...under caju w lion. heard leopard earlier. close meet ellie in day.  Or my favourite...last night vivid dream, ikcl a snake, just now I met her in my path, qhe iired n made off.  now owle franzy got a baby m the stairs and pasents attending at best.  That is transcribed for you, letter for letter - I can usually get the gist but sometimes wonder if the lion or snake has eaten him and the owl eaten a baby, or at least something has nibbled off his texting finger!

Anyway the latest communication instalment has resulted in urgent messages requesting that Tom brings yet more useful things. 

The most exciting news is that Tom the new volunteer (see previous entry) decided to go out and see what is happening for himself - he would rather be on the ground helping Dominik with the poaching problem.  So he left yesterday loaded up with all sorts of fantastic goods, bought thanks to the generosity of our supporters....GPS, satellite phone, mobile solar charger, more uniforms, more ibobrufen for Naquata (who if in UK would have a hip replacement.) etc.

Two days before Tom was due to leave - I get a crackly phonecall asking for....plastic toy guns and handcuffs.  After much searching I find them on ebay - ebay is a wonderful thing. I buy and then send pleading emails to the sellers requesting quick dispatch.

Just after putting Tom on the Heathrow bus I return home to see the postman delivering the ebay goods...so sadly they remain here.  (I am now very well equipped for Ranger impersonation in Oxford, where poaching even of Mallard ducks, is yet to be an issue ... but I am prepared.)

World AIDS Day

Today is World AIDS Day and thoughts turn to Africa.  Mareja is in an area where an estimated 1 in 10 people suffer from AIDS: sadly the real figure is likely to be much higher. 

There is a very low awareness’ of the effects of the disease and the ease with which it can now be controlled through medication. Free treatment is available in Pemba but it's a 3 hour drive away and a local witch doctor is still a much preferred option.

A new recruit - thanks to my neigbour Annabel and a game of cricket

Annabel yahooed as I approached down my street 'you must meet Tom.'  She was playing cricket at the time with her two children and Tom.  I had arrived back early from London so in fact had half an hour before dashing for an appointment about my blasted frozen shoulder. 

Well long story abbreviated Tom turned out to be an extraordinary find.  Recently left working in Tanzania and looking for a real African conservation project to work on, with a wealth of experience including army, guiding and even some biodiversity research.

So we have a new recruit, as a volunteer until I can raise funds and he has discovered whether Mareja and Dominik in the raw are to his liking and vica versa.  Anyway it does feel as though I have a fairy godmother after all.  A passionate and driven conservationist to support us and Mareja - thank you Annabel and your cricket team.

New tiles, early developments - what do you think???

This batch was not fired perfectly but I love the resulting black swirls

We run womens projects when all the harvest is in - giving them a chance to earn their own money. 

Sofiana with daughter feeding

laying large tiles -
some have a Kudu print

They do various jobs, like collecting grass to repair rooves but last year we began making floor tiles and have now, after lots of trialling, really mastered these large plain terrocota coloured tiles.  (Indeed Dominik has used them to pave every surface inside and out he can think of.) 

They are beautiful and highly practical...when fired correctly.  Over or underburning results in disintegration in the rain or brittle cracking.  The first firings were done in a large pit with much firewood, then the Donkey furnace by the house and now the new furnace which was built with the help of Jason (an ecoBrit who works in Pemba.)

Amina and Margaretta

We are now embarking on a new phase, working on smaller tiles with patterns and designs.  It is a highly interesting and experimental phase.Our local Makua tribe are not known for their art.  They make baskets, matts and beautiful cooking pots smoothed and perfectly rounded and balanced but the extent of the design is markings at the top, dots or dashes.  There is not tradition of jewellery or other mark making -unlike neighbouring tribes.  So this is a real adventure ...one I am greatly enjoying.  We all sit together and happily work in the dappled shade of the cashew trees.

So I tried to encourage them to play and explore the idea of design, creating images from their life at Mareja- with books for inspiration. Sitting in silence with occassional chat and I write down Makua in the hope they might penetrate my dry brain (Niparooto is butterfly - said with emphasis on the 'oo').  These days were probably the most fun I have had in a very long time.

Levene and her son...lending a helping hand/foot!

Two of the young women (Sofiana and Levene) have small children who eat, sleep, fiddle with clay making their own creative constructions and occassionally interfere with the process with a sudden fist or foot, but this happens surprisingly little considering their mothers attention is elsewhere.  They are amazingly skilled at working while a child is attached to a breast or slung neatly about them.  And you can't but help reflect on the benefits of this style of mothering.

They have produced some wonderful designs - using a porcupince quill or guineafowl feather. 

Here you are...

Guineafowl and cashew tree

Sable Antelope or Pala pala

Cashew tree by Amina, this is one of my favourites-
wonderful composition





Do you like these early designs?  Please let me know your thoughts.