Intense reality...tiles, spirits and blood analysis

As usual we are doing a flying Pemba visit but this time with added urgency as we have to leave for UK in 5 days.  Much to say but in brief:

For me a time of tile making with a group  of four women (two children).  Now that they have mastered the large floor tiles, am encouraging them to explore designs.  It is a new world entirely for them and full of much excitement for me and they seem to be enjoying it greatly too.

Much illness amongst the community, Adamo has a horrendous boil in a comprising place.  Maria is suffering from various pains I can't quite understand and yesterday I took her to the Private clinic here in Pemba.  She had many blood tests that revealed great illness and were a shock (she was given an antibiotic drip and looked like a startled rabbit but I sat with here and gave her the odd mint I had (M&S curiously strong...and comforting).  She is now armed with 6 types of medication and we will take her back to Mareja today to her natural environment.  She has a chronic womb infection and syphillis but sadly that is not it and the last condition the doctor decided to keep from her for now.  The reality of life here involves major illness with an average life expectancy of 47, Maria is 37 and we must now get her the medication she needs to prolong her life as much as possible.  (Dominik is also trying to locate a councillor who suffers from the same condition and speaks Machua, as there is potential confusion, fear and stigma to try to overcome.)

An alarming turn after a happy day of tile making was a sudden call early evening as Ali's wife had 'developed madness'.  We visited to discover a terrifying night attack of wild screaming and voices where she had to be restrained.  We tried, crammed into her smoke filled dark home, to help calm her but she was consumed by a world far from our reach and had to be driven to Nanduli yesterday.   She usually had the broadest most beautiful white smile which has quite disappeared and been replaced by a deep reflective scowl. They say she is possessed by a spirit which arises from a time when she was enslaved during the war of Independence and suffered who knows what terrors.

There are reported armed Poachers on the Mareja border.  They have apparently killed many many elephants using AKAs and armory only associated with the Police or Army - a new twist to have guns involved.  Our Rangers have been flakey lately so there has been much discussion and work to improve their drive and commitment.  They are focusing patrols around our elephant strong holds.  We seem to have more elephants present than usual so they may be fleeing towards a safe haven.  Dominik is strategising and working hard - all his fears may be coming true.

On a light note I have had some clothes made by Josephina - African materials into simple but striking outfits and a few presents to add a bit of colour to the European palette.